South Africa, Disruptive, sexy, fluid, fun – this is Diesel for Fall/Winter 2022, this is Diesel forever. Creative director Glenn Martens presents his first catwalk show for the brand that unleashes the Diesel world: denim, experimentation, rebellion, play.
“The power of Diesel is that we talk to so many people. We can push sustainability and innovation, and we can push experimentation and concept. It’s pure Diesel – you need to put it on in two seconds and live your life. For Successful Living!” says Glenn Martens.
There are four chapters to the collection – denim; utility; pop and artisanal. Design themes run throughout, like the raw attitude of utilitarian belts, the sexuality of hook-and-eye, the play of trompe l’oeil and the energy of asymmetry. Materials clash and contrast, textures are pumped up, every look has freedom and control.
Denim jeans are almost destroyed at the waist, as if hanging by thread but are held by an internal waistband. A cropped indigo tank is held by a utility belt, while a supersized denim belt is just wide enough to be a skirt. Most of the denim cuts in the collection are from Diesel Library, the brand’s core range of more responsible denim.
There’s real denim, and then there’s trompe l’oeil, like a catsuit printed with denim jacket and jeans. There are also pants woven in a jacquard as if it’s distressed denim, and flock denim that’s over-printed with a trompe l’oeil of distressed denim. Meanwhile more denim is treated with film-coating for structure and sheen in jackets and trenches.
Hoodies are warped into dresses with wild movement, cut with panels of chiffon and drawstrings to exaggerate the drama of their curved lines. Shearling flight jackets are reversible, while other hoodies and track pants are cut away around the head and ankle, revealing layers of jersey within.
Pop dresses are audacious in metallic pink, cut from coated knit with a ‘D’ logo above the chest. Hook-and-eyes fasten a metallic miniskirt and cardigan, while flock velvet halter tops and mini-skirts are printed with fresh takes on archive Diesel graphics. Logo fleece hoodies and pants from Diesel Sport are ready for the club, whether it’s sport or party.
Upcycled jersey is bonded to denim to create artisanal “Peel Off” pieces, as if fly-posters have been stripped off a wall. Organza is upcycled and smocked to create light-as-air minidresses, long sleeved with an open decolletage. Denim has been shredded by hand and looped to create coats that give the effect of faux fur.
The collection includes the first ever pieces created from fully recycled denim, cotton, and elastane and indigo-dyed without water. It’s about rehabilitation, with Diesel making fresh yarn from its production scraps, creating an innovative, positive new line: Diesel Rehab Denim, in partnership with fabric sustainability specialists Tejidos Royo.
This season’s new sneaker, the Prototype CR, has a criss-cross strap, a wrap-around effect that echoed in the belts circumnavigating the foot of women’s high-heel boots. High heel sandals have the ‘D’ logo over the toe, the ‘D’ logo repeating in metallic bags. There are also bags with a belt strap, while moulded backpacks and cross-body bags are proud with the ‘D’ logo.